Building an Long Exposure at Night in Sleepy Hollow Cemetery

Long exposures at night are fun. Building up and exposure with multiple light sources is easy. Here is a quick tutorial from a recent shoot.

I had the great pleasure of going out to shoot with my friend Gabriel Biderman and Joe Scalamoni at the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery in Tarrytown, NY  with photographer and tour director Jim Logan last night. Yes, this is the very same Sleepy Hollow of legend that Washington Irving published in 1820. You can even visit his modest grave in the same cemetery.

After taking a tour around the 90 acre cemetery with Jim, we started shooting during magic hour near the large monuments:

rockefeller-1

© Matt Hill

archbold-1

© Matt Hill

And then moved into the older part of the cemetery where soft, marble headstones and sculpture were showing signs of wear. Great subjects! Let’s get started.

First off, I locked in my D700 on the PHQ1 + CT214 legs. Next, we put a speedlite on 1/16 manual power on a 15′ telescoping painter’s extension pole with a PocketWizard Plus II Transceiver set to receive. Standing in front of the statue and holding the flash as high as possible above, we made one exposure to test the flash power.

© Matt Hill

© Matt Hill | ISO 400, f/5.6, 52 Seconds

Next, based on previous exposures, we chose a 5-minute exposure to bring out sky detail and star trails.

© Matt Hill | ISO 400, f/5.6, 5 Mins.

© Matt Hill | ISO 400, f/5.6, 5 Mins.

The background is a bit dark, so after exposing our main subject, We used the speedlite and multiple pops exposed some of the trees and gravestones in the rear. Um, whoops. If your radio trigger and speedlite have blinking lights, walk behind the tripods ;)

© Matt Hill | ISO 400, F/5.6, 5 Mins.

© Matt Hill | ISO 400, F/5.6, 5 Mins.

It was not enough, so we jacked the speedlite to full power and tried again.

© Matt Hill | ISO 400, f/5.6, 5 Mins

© Matt Hill | ISO 400, f/5.6, 5 Mins

Nailed. Since the background got exposure, you know this statue lives among headstones. Otherwise, it could be anywhere. One final touch – I took the final image out of Lightroom and into Nik’s Silver Efex Pro and added some special sauce, including a control point to bring down brightness on the tree in the background that got a little too hot. NOTE: For consistency, always use a flash meter!

sleepy-hollow-night-matt-hill-5

Voila. Build your own soon! And be sure to bring your tripod ;)

Many thanks to Jim Logan from the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery Historic Fund for allowing us to roam and shoot. If you are local or visiting, give him a shout – tours@sleepyhollowcemetery.org. He and Rob Yasinsac will be having a photo tour this Saturday, 9/4 – Introduction to Night Photography.

Gabriel Biderman will be having one titled, “Night Visions ~ Seeing the Unseen Beauty of Sleepy Hollow Cemetery” on 9/18 – 5pm-midnight.

The massive cemetery is full of some amazing interments – check out this list – including Andrew Carnegie, Elizabeth Arden, George Jones (co-founder of The New York Times), William Rockefeller and many, many more. Take a tour, and bring your tripod!

Sleepy Hollow Cemetery
Sleepy Hollow Cemetery on Facebook

Gabriel Biderman Fine Art Photography

by Matt Hill (Twitter)

Brian Rueb on Induro in Iceland

Brian Rueb is a professional landscape and wildlife photographer living in California. He teaches over 45 outdoor workshops a year with the Aperture Academy, and is working towards completing a book documenting his trek to Iceland, where he recently took an Induro CT213 tripod and an Induro BHD2 ballhead. What follows is his summary of the trip in his own words.

Iceland is a land of extremes. It’s one of the toughest places I’ve ever photographed. I knew from the get go it would be a test for my gear. Uneven surfaces, extreme wind, and driving rains: this place has it all. In addition to the weather, Iceland also has some of the most amazing landscapes on the planet—a real playground for photographers, like me, who find this type of work enjoyable. This project wasn’t just a week or ten days. It was 67 days of hiking and photography. With Iceland’s high latitude, the sun never really sets during much of the summer and that means the good light for photographing (sunrise and sunset) can last up to 5 or 6 hours.

©Brian Rueb

©Brian Rueb

Not only was this experience going to be a test for me mentally and physically—it was going to be a test for my gear as well, and especially my tripod: an Induro CT213 and BHD2 ballhead.

Before I left I remember thinking, “If a tripod breaks on this trip, the trip is a waste. I won’t be able to photograph anything the way I need to.” I had to have a tripod that would make the cut, and I felt good about the Induro going in. Really good.

The first thing I love about this tripod is the weight: just over four pounds with the ballhead. During the course of my trip, I walked close to 450 miles—most of it hiking to and from a shooting location. Just my camera gear weighs close to 18 pounds, and combined with all the gear I need to camp, my bag weighs close to 50 pounds. Not a whole heck of a lot of fun to lug around. A tripod is an absolute necessity for me. Having one that doesn’t weigh a ton is so nice.

©Brian Rueb

©Brian Rueb

While the overall weight of the tripod is nice, the thing about it that makes it so special is the stability. I had this tripod submerged in fast moving rivers. I had it balanced precariously on the edges of crazy cliffs. I set it up in 20-30mph winds. I put my 100-400mm lens on it for close up shots.I even put my 100-400mm lens on it in 20-30mph winds.

It works really well.

It always functioned as I wanted it to.

It always opened and closed easily, even after being submerged in rivers, sea, and muck. I wish I functioned as well after being submerged in muck.

©Brian Rueb

©Brian Rueb

I’ve been doing this photography thing a long time, and have used and destroyed every kind of tripod imaginable. This tripod has been through the roughest spots I’ve seen, and performed at a high level throughout. Whether strapped to my backpack on a 30 mile hike, being shuffled around from bus to bus by uncaring bus drivers, getting slammed quickly into a car I managed to hitch a ride with, or set up for actual photography. I put this tripod through a huge workout. It came through like a champ.

namaskard

©Brian Rueb

I even used it on a few occasions for protection from bird attack. The Arctic Tern migrates en masse to Iceland every summer to nest, feed and raise young. It is one of the most fiercely protective birds I’ve ever encountered. If you should wander too closely to their nesting grounds it’s an attack reminiscent of the worst scenes in Hitchcock’s The Birds thankfully there is a fault in their attacks, and they will always go for the highest point. When I walked through particularly tern-heavy areas, I used my Induro as a defensive pole over my head to ward off their attack.

Here’s four of my favorite shots from this trip to show the diverse and beautiful landscape I was fortunate enough to spend my summer exploring and photographing.

Brian Rueb Photography
Brian Rueb on Facebook
The Aperture Academy

Leander Hutton’s Five Photography Tips

5pttinyinduroLeander Hutton recently published “Five Tips for Photographing a Meteor Shower” on his blog. We really enjoy what he does and how he writes. Here is his post for our Five Photography Tips.

This week is peak time for annual Perseid meteor shower. Astrophotography was actually my first photographic interest, being a Astronomy student in college spurred my interest in photography. I’ve compiled five tips for making good looking astrophotos and some specific ones for meteor shower events.

  1. This should go without saying, but a sturdy tripod and a remote trigger are necessity. You can get around the trigger by using your camera’s count down timer. This allows you to get your hand away from the camera when the shutter goes up and reduces vibration. Also check to see if your camera supports a mirror lock up mode for shooting. Most do for cleaning only, usually the mid-to-higher end models have it for shooting. This will further reduce vibrations introduced by the mirror flapping up.
  2. As far as lenses go, the wider the better. A fisheye works best. Some of these things can streak all the way across the sky so having a full 180 degree is desirable. An f/2.8 maximum aperture will be beneficial too, although i’ve squeaked by at f/4 before. If you don’t have a fast wide angle lens I highly recommend renting one from a site like LensRentals.com. These guys are the best in the photo rental industry in my opinion. I’ve used them several times for several jobs and never had a single bad experience. *Lens Rentals is not a sponsor of this blog, I just really happen to like them.* If you don’t like the fisheye look you can use software like Fisheye Hemi to “defish” the photo in post.
  3. Keep your exposures around 20 seconds or less. There’s a couple of reasons for this. Firstly it keeps the thermal noise down on the sensor (this can be a problem on sticky summer nights) and secondly you probably don’t want to streak the stars too much. You really want to meteors to be the only thing streaking, this gives the best impression of motion.  If you’ve got a motor drive telescope mount you can use that to track with the motion of the Earth. Most these mounts have a place for a camera tripod thread.
  4. Don’t be afraid of higher ISOs.  Meteors are relatively faint, chances are you’ll miss a few if you’re at ISO 100 or 200. I typically shoot at ISO 400 or 800 for these and with most modern DSLRs that’s not really a problem. Even a five year old model will be fine at ISO 400.
  5. Find a dark sky. This may be the hardest part of all. Every year more poorly designed street lights and billboards go up that fill even country skies with nasty light pollution. I recommend getting at least 15-20 miles outside of an medium sized urban area. Go even further out if it’s a larger one. Also, know your sky. The Perseids will appear to come from the constellation Perseus. Study a star chart for the time of night you plan to be out to know in what direction to generally point your camera. You can find free ones on skyandtelesope.com.
©Leander Hutton

©Leander Hutton

Leander also sent me this line in an email: “I just purchased an Induro BHD1 and an AT213 tripod and I’m throughly enjoying it. I’ll probably have a review of it in a few weeks. Really good stuff!” We’ll keep an eye out for this review. Thanks so much, Leander! Great tips!

Leander Hutton’s site and blog

Leander Hutton on Twitter

Leander Hutton on Facebook

Leander Hutton on Flickr

Zack Jones Tests Induro

Our first encounter with Zack Jones was when we saw the below image, which we found hilarious.

©Zack Jones

©Zack Jones

It’s not every day you see a Powershot D10 mounted on a monster tripod and head, like the Induro CT314 and the BHD3. Since then, we’ve become fans of Camera Guy Zack, his blog, his sense of humor, and the gear reviews he regularly posts. Jones resides in Goose Creek, South Carolina, and primarily photographs wildlife. A Canon shooter, he knows his gear, and enjoys bending ears about anything he finds useful in the world of photography. Jones also posted the below photo utilizing the above set up, plus the Induro GHBA Gimbal head.

advancedsetup

©Zack Jones

While researching for a new tripod and head, Jones came across Eric Brown’s Photography Minute Blog and his review of the CT314. He also found our profile of Brown. The two shot similar wildlife. Soon, Jones was sold on Induro. So sold was Jones, he undertook a six-part series of posts covering his Induro experience. Here’s the breakdown:

  1. Induro Gear Guide Part 1 – Introduction
  2. Induro Gear Guide Part 2 – Induro CT314 Tripod
  3. Induro Gear Guide Part 3 – Induro BHD3 Ballhead
  4. Induro Gear Guide Part 4 – Induro GHBA Gimbal Head
  5. Induro Gear Guide Part 5 – Balancing Your Camera/Lens on the GHBA Gimbal Head
  6. Induro Gear Guide Part 6 – Wrap up

Thanks for the shoutouts, Zack. We’ll definitely keep reading and learning.